Taking cuttings is a quick, easy and cost-effective way of propagating plants. We'll show you how to do it successfully in this step-by-step guide.
10.07.2026
Many plant species can be successfully grown from cuttings, such as hydrangea, lavender, roses, geraniums, fuchsia and lilac. But there are many more perennials, bedding plants and shrubs that would be good candidates.
It is best to take cuttings between the end of May and August, when the new growth is long enough and has matured, but this can depend on the type of cutting.
There's not one right answer to whether you should root cuttings in water or soil. Both methods can work well depending on the plant.
Cuttings started in soil tend to be easier to pot later, because they develop stronger, more adaptable roots. However, cuttings rooted in water stay well hydrated, so they can usually be kept in an open container without needing to be under plastic to retain moisture.
A general seed sowing compost or normal potting soil mixed with sand works well for cuttings. You want the compost to be low in nutrients and disease-free to give young roots the best chance to develop into strong, healthy plants.
The difference between cuttings and layering comes down to whether the new plant is separated from the parent plant straight away.
With cuttings, a piece of the plant (such as a stem or root) is cut off first and then encouraged to form roots on its own.
With layering, the shoot is left attached to the parent plant and gently bent down to the ground and covered in soil so it can form roots while still being supported. Once roots have developed, the newly rooted section is then cut away and grown on as a separate plant. Layering is a more reliable method of propagation, and worth trying if cuttings fail.
Cuttings are best rooted in seed compost or potting compost because they only contain small amounts of nutrients. Although that may sound counterintuitive, it encourages the cuttings to produce more roots to access what they need, helping them establish strong, healthy growth.
Cuttings are sections of growing material from a parent plant, and they can come in different forms. Discover what different types of cuttings there are below:
Tip cuttings are a good choice for beginners
A tip cutting is made by cutting off the end of a healthy, growing stem. The cutting should include a leaf bud and a section of stem between two leaf joints (called an internode). Plants such as fuchsia, pelargonium and hydrangea can all be propagated in this way.
Tip cuttings are one of the easiest ways to grow new plants because they usually take relatively easily, making them a good choice for beginners.
Garden roses are ideal for propagation using stem cuttings.
Stem cuttings are leafless pieces of stem with multiple buds. Some plants are not suitable for stem cuttings because their stems are too short or too branched, such as geraniums.
One advantage of stem cuttings is that you can usually take more cuttings from a single parent plant than you can with tip cuttings. Dracaena and roses, for example, are particularly suitable for propagation using stem cuttings.
Leaf cuttings consist of a single leaf.
Leaf cuttings use a leaf, with or without its stem, to grow a new plant. This propagation method only works with certain plant species, such as begonias and African violets.
In most cases a special cutting technique is needed. For example, the leaf veins may need to be cut at the point they branch out, and then new roots can develop from these cuts once placed in soil.
One thing to keep in mind is that leaf cuttings are quite soft and prone to rot. The advantage is that you can usually get a large number of leaf cuttings from one parent plant.
Root cuttings are easy to take from drumstick primroses.
Root cuttings consist of a root piece without stems, leaves or shoot tips. Root cuttings can only be used for propagation of a few plant species, for example the drumstick primrose. A parent plant can usually give you many root cuttings.
Taking cuttings is just one way to multiply your favourite garden flowers. There are two other common ways to propagate plants; layering and sowing seeds. But what are the differences?
Layering involves bending a healthy stem down to the ground and covering part of it with soil while it is still attached to the parent plant.
Because the stem stays connected to the parent plant while it develops roots, it continues to receive water and nutrients until it is ready to be separated, which can make it a more reliable propagation method.
With cuttings, a piece of the plant is removed from the parent plant and encouraged to grow its own roots and become an independent plant. Because cuttings must survive and root without any ongoing support from the parent plant, they are harder to grow.
Growing plants from seed is the most common form of propagation, and it means you get more variety in colour, shape and growth thanks to the natural genetic variation that comes from pollination.
Cuttings can produce established young plants more quickly than growing from seed, sometimes within just a few weeks. They are also 1:1 clones of the parent plants, so you know what characteristics to expect. That means you should always choose a healthy and well-flowering parent plant to take cuttings from.
STIHL sustainability tip
Taking cuttings is an easy and cost-effective way to grow new plants from your existing favourites. This can help reduce packaging and transport associated with buying new plants. To make the most of what you already have, you can also try reusing old flowerpots to pot up your cuttings.
Taking cuttings correctly is easier than you might think and isn't just for experienced gardeners. Follow our simple step-by-step guide to grow more of your favourite plants and enjoy even more colour in your garden, home or balcony.
You can start taking cuttings with just a few basic tools. Here's a list of what you'll need to get started.
First choose a healthy parent plant which has characteristics you would like your cuttings to have, for example, a particular colour flower or leaf.
For hydrangeas, cut the stem just below a leaf node (the point where leaves grow from the stem). This will usually provide one tip cutting and several stem cuttings.
For tip cuttings, remove all the leaves except for the top pairs, and if the tip is very soft, trim it off so only the leaves remain.
For longer shoots, cut the stem into sections, making each cut just above a pair of leaves and just below the next leaf node (where the leaves join the stem). This will give you one tip cutting and several stem cuttings to work with.
Cut the remaining leaves back by about two thirds to make the evaporative area smaller and help prevent your cuttings from drying out. To do this, simply fold the leaves in half lengthways and trim them with secateurs.
Fill the pots with seed compost and gently press down with your fingers.
Insert the plant cuttings into the compost, pressing the compost gently around them. They should be kept upright and have good contact with the soil. Make sure to water them well so they have enough moisture.
Place the cuttings in a propagator with the vents closed to maintain the high humidity they need to develop roots.
If you don't have a propagator, cover the cuttings with a glass dome, a large jar, or a sheet of cling film supported by skewers to create a warm, humid environment.
As soon as new leaves form, you can remove the cover. You may already be able to spot the first roots appearing through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pots.
Once the cutting has developed a healthy root system, move it into a larger pot and care for it as you would any other plant of the same type.
Over winter, keep it in a sheltered spot outdoors and continue growing it in its pot until it's ready to be planted out.
The lavender cutting is ready for planting.
To take lavender cuttings from a parent plant, cut 8-10cm sections from the tips of healthy stems.
Strip all the leaves from the bottom 7cm of each cutting and pinch off the soft growing tip with your fingers.
Now, fill a pot with seed compost and make planting holes using a widger or old pencil/pen.
Place the cuttings into the holes and gently firm the compost around them. Place the pot in a propagator to help the cuttings root. You can grow different types of cuttings in the same propagator at the same time.
Small stems indicate where the leaves were.
Cut a good 30cm-long rose stem from the parent plant.
Remove all the leaves, leaving the small leaf stalks attached so you can still see where the leaves were. Cut the stem about 5mm above a leaf node (the point where a leaf grows from the stem). If the leaf nodes are very close together, cut the stem above every other one. You can remove the shoot tip.
Fill a small pot with compost and insert the cutting. Gently firm the compost around the stem to hold it in place.
Place the pot in a propagator to help the cutting develop roots.
STIHL tip
It isn't just hydrangeas, lavender and roses that can be propagated from cuttings. Many popular garden and patio plants, including fuchsia, oleander, geranium and plumbago, root well from cuttings. Shrubs and herbs such as viburnum, deutzia, sage and thyme are also great for taking cuttings.
To enjoy healthy plants for a long time, there are a few things to consider when taking cuttings.
The best time to take cuttings from the parent plant is from the end of May to August, when the fresh shoots are long enough and have matured.
Timing is important when taking cuttings. The stems should be firm but still flexible. If the shoots are too soft, they are more likely to rot. If they have become woody, they may be slower to develop roots. A simple way to check is to hold the shoot between your thumb and forefinger. If it droops or bends over easily, it is too soft and not yet suitable for taking cuttings.
The length of the cuttings varies depending on the size and growth of the plant being propagated. Always cut the stem just below a bud or pair of buds, as this is where the plant naturally concentrates its growth, helping the cutting successfully develop roots quickly.
The cutting should be at least one internode long, i.e. a stem section between two buds or pairs of buds (nodes). Remember to remove the leaves on the lower pair of buds when cutting, as they rot quickly when in contact with the ground.
When it comes to planting your cuttings, it’s best to use ready-made potting compost, or even seed compost. The low levels of nutrients forces the young plants to form more roots to meet their needs, helping them to establish quickly.
Cuttings can thrive in soil or water. If you let the cuttings root directly into soil, the seedlings are easier to pot up, as the roots have already formed as solid balls. Water-rooted cuttings have more brittle roots, so be extra careful when potting them up.
Cuttings grown in water take up very little space and don't need to be covered to maintain humidity, unlike cuttings grown in compost.
Keep the compost moist while your cuttings are rooting, but avoid making it too wet. If you see condensation building up inside the propagator or cover, remove it for a short time to improve air circulation. Check your cuttings regularly and immediately remove any that show signs of rot to help prevent it from spreading.
After around two to three weeks, cuttings form new roots and can be moved into larger pots.
Use a good-quality potting compost that contains more nutrients than seed compost, to help your young plants establish strong roots and healthy growth.
